Hood leather

[STait]

Haven't tried goat for hoods, but rules definitely change for stitches not hidden. I love goatskin gloves.

[California Native]

Steve,
Three or more years back, I discussed with another hood maker, just what leather that traditional Indian and Arab hoods might have been made from. Goat was suggested as one of the leathers. I visited a leather warehouse while traveling and picked out a nice hide that was already dyed. Not sure what it was and then saw a tag on the rack the hides had been pulled down from. It was goat. They had hides that were as light as 1.5 ounce to 2-3 ounces. I suspect this leather might have been used for purses or jackets. The suede side was as nice as I have seen in years. The finished side just as nice and the cost quite low compared to English Kip. I wanted to try it for hoods to make the Anglo Indian hood or Arab in what might have been a traditional leather. This particular hide and each in the pile of hides were limp compared to vegetable tanned English kip. I had planned to laminate a thin layer of skiver and did. But I found like most leathers that the goat stiffened with water sprayed on it. Last year, I stopped at the same leather warehouse and bought more goat. This time it was in a natural color of vegetable tanned leather. I have not yet used it.

Dan

[STait]

Dan, let me know how you like it.

[mosman]

Since the leather issue came up let me ask you Professional hood makers about HOW much of a difference does "good" leather make as compared to leather that I can get from Tandy.I am not putting Tandy down at all, I have used just their 4-5 ounce sides, have not bought real good leather for hoods since most of mine end up in the trash because I dont like the finished product.

So does the English Kip leather they sell for around 150.00 a side make a huge difference in how easy it is to stitch up and how well it holds together? And also, any advice on needle size and types of string. I use a tough nylon string now but it doesnt seem to hold the stitches well, even with wax on it.

[GONEHAWKN]

My local, and only Tandy, rarely has hides clean enough for me to consider buying. The flesh side is very nappy, and the hair side seems to be littered with imperfections. I have been there enough looking at their stuff to know my odds of getting a good one is slim. Now, i do know that Ken H. gets a LOT if not all of his skin from a local Tandy and like what he gets. The only thing i have gotten from Tandy thats made me happy was a petite calf hide. That was pretty clean, but it was pricey for its size. I only make about 25-35 hoods a year, so a single skin from WSP goes a long way for me. It's by far the nicest skin i have worked with and my customers have taken notice too.

Now, for needles and thread. All i am using is some Coats and Clark upholstery thread from Walmart. Paul D. turned me onto this thread a few years ago and i have been using it ever since. As for needles, i get them at Walmart too. Just some small jobs that looked good to me. i think my latest batch i bought were size 7 embroidery needle. I dont wax my thread either. Not sure how many do or dont, i just dont bother. Hope this was of some help. Maybe some of the more weatherd and experienced hood makers will chime in. I just dabble in hood making.

[Keith Denman]

I brought my last hide from leather crafters and they only had one that was ok not great. The petite calf I got from Tandy was good but I look through 20 or more hides to find one good one. Getting good leather in the last several years has been rather trying. I use D size C-Lon and I do wax my thread because it strengthens it and protects it so it will hold up longer. I use size 7-9 needles as well.

[Keith Denman]

My local, and only Tandy, rarely has hides clean enough for me to consider buying. The flesh side is very nappy, and the hair side seems to be littered with imperfections. I have been there enough looking at their stuff to know my odds of getting a good one is slim. Now, i do know that Ken H. gets a LOT if not all of his skin from a local Tandy and like what he gets. The only thing i have gotten from Tandy thats made me happy was a petite calf hide. That was pretty clean, but it was pricey for its size. I only make about 25-35 hoods a year, so a single skin from WSP goes a long way for me. It's by far the nicest skin i have worked with and my customers have taken notice too.

Now, for needles and thread. All i am using is some Coats and Clark upholstery thread from Walmart. Paul D. turned me onto this thread a few years ago and i have been using it ever since. As for needles, i get them at Walmart too. Just some small jobs that looked good to me. i think my latest batch i bought were size 7 embroidery needle. I dont wax my thread either. Not sure how many do or dont, i just dont bother. Hope this was of some help. Maybe some of the more weatherd and experienced hood makers will chime in. I just dabble in hood making.

Hi Bill you said you get your leather from WSP, what and where is that at if you do not mind me asking? I live in the country and travel almost 3 hours to get to a shop I can buy leather at.

[Joan Marie]

As a side note from a seamstress if you run your thread through a beeswax thread conditioner (in the sewing notion section) before sewing you will avoid those troublesome knots. Also, when you need to make that first run with your threaded needle through cloth or most anything else, run the end of the needle through your scalp. Mama said.

Happy hooding!

[Lowachi]

Hi Bill you said you get your leather from WSP, what and where is that at if you do not mind me asking? I live in the country and travel almost 3 hours to get to a shop I can buy leather at.

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