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Thread: 2105 Little Banded Goshawk Imprint

  1. #36
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    Day 26





    Thankfully he is a lot more relaxed today and is learning to accept the tether. Still wants to sit on the end of the tray containing the perch but mostly on the perch or in the tray. The biggest challenge I am having now is the pick up. I am "carrying" the bird the garnished lure to eat which is working great. However, once the meal is eaten, do you pick up the bird with the glove using a titbit on the glove? The reason I ask is that my bird will NOT step up the glove (I usually have to tilt the perch back for him to step on the glove - which will not work if he is on the ground/basket eating off the lure. When I tried to pick him up on the glove will chitters and hangs upside down (not good). But once I flip him back on the glove he will stand still and happy as long as I keep him there.
    Regards
    Khaled

  2. #37
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    I read this post with great interest. I also imprinted a few shikra but with different approach. I just feed them directly using forceps and train them to fly to the fist so, they scream a lot. Shikra is a good fun especially the male. They are very tough and I can catch quails, myna sparrow, and chipmunk with them.
    Bami

  3. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by bami View Post
    I read this post with great interest. I also imprinted a few shikra but with different approach. I just feed them directly using forceps and train them to fly to the fist so, they scream a lot. Shikra is a good fun especially the male. They are very tough and I can catch quails, myna sparrow, and chipmunk with them.
    Hello Bami. Always interesting to hear from people whom flow Shikras. I have to say it has been a challenging journey so far. After a number of years training passage and PR falcons one gets in a comfort zone. Then comes along imprinting an Accipiter which is a whole different game. I am enjoying it, just not a lot of people imprinting here that once can defer to . Thankfully, plenty of great advice from NAFEX members.
    Regards
    Khaled

  4. #39
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    Day 27.

    Fed him an opened DOC last night which he enjoyed a lot. I notice he doesn't eat his fill at once. A few good chunks then rests then eats again etc.. This morning I took him out to the garden to lure to eat. He sat by it and would not touch the food for a while. Then moved the lure to a raised eating platform and he was more comfortable there. I think outdoors is little much for him.



    Regards
    Khaled

  5. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by falcon3d View Post
    Day 26


    Thankfully he is a lot more relaxed today and is learning to accept the tether. Still wants to sit on the end of the tray containing the perch but mostly on the perch or in the tray. The biggest challenge I am having now is the pick up. I am "carrying" the bird the garnished lure to eat which is working great. However, once the meal is eaten, do you pick up the bird with the glove using a titbit on the glove? The reason I ask is that my bird will NOT step up the glove (I usually have to tilt the perch back for him to step on the glove - which will not work if he is on the ground/basket eating off the lure. When I tried to pick him up on the glove will chitters and hangs upside down (not good). But once I flip him back on the glove he will stand still and happy as long as I keep him there.
    What I usually do is pick them up off the lure before they have eaten much, with food on the glove. You can also pick up the lure with them on it, and then sort of transfer them off to a piece you have in the glove, slipping the lure away. Then walk with them back to near the perch you hope to put them back on after the meal so that you are close to it when they get done. After you do that a few times he'll get more relaxed about the fist and you can put smaller and smaller chunks of meat on the lure and offer the majority of the meal on the fist after pick up...if that's what you want to do.
    Last edited by PeteJ; 06-17-2015 at 10:18 AM. Reason: typos fixed
    Pete J
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  6. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteJ View Post
    What I usually do is pick them up off the lure before they have eaten much, with food on the glove. You can also pick up the lure with them on it, and then sort of transfer them off to a piece you have in the glove, slipping the lure away. Then walk with them back to near the perch you hope to put them back on after the meal so that you are close to it when they get done. After you do that a few times he'll get more relaxed about the fist and you can put smaller and smaller chunks of meat on the lure and offer the majority of the meal on the fist after pick up...if that's what you want to do.
    Thanks Pete. I will try that. As for feeding on the fist, will cause any screaming or aggression down the line? Is there a downside? What you describing is how I typically feed by PR/passage falcons and would be whole lot more familiar to me.
    Regards
    Khaled

  7. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by falcon3d View Post
    Thanks Pete. I will try that. As for feeding on the fist, will cause any screaming or aggression down the line? Is there a downside? What you describing is how I typically feed by PR/passage falcons and would be whole lot more familiar to me.
    It depends a great deal on how much you lean on his weight further down the line. Most people seem to feel the need to really get after their hawks (more so than falcons) early on. But in the wild, often young hawks are still with their parents for weeks longer than some falcons. It is just harder to see what is happening with young hawks as they are frequently in the canopy of trees and tend to be a bit stealthy to begin with.
    I'm not saying this protocol won't cause the undesirable effects we worry about, but sometimes those things are going to come because with hawks those behaviors are so much closer to the surface. One poor feeding day due to overheat or sour crop or whatever and boom...there it is, full blown screaming, mantling, aggression. You just have to trudge through it, get them going as best you can and let time heal all the wounds that might happen along the way. But, for me, routine is the best medicine. If the hawk knows what to expect and when to expect it, then generally it allows them to relax in the off time and be 'on' at the right time. Bouncing around with how you handle them and their training is not always a useful way to proceed.
    Pete J
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  8. #43
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    Day 28

    Overall bird temperament is getting a lot better. I am feeding 2-3 per day. taking to lure in the garden, then again in the early evening (he jumps to the fist) and then I will leave a DOCs with him at night while he sleeps so he can eat first thing. His weight has not picked up though. Bird chitters and feels secure around me. After finishing food outside on the lure he bates towards me, I put out the fist and he is happy sitting there. Today he slept on the fist in the evening.

    Now for the bad news, went out for dinner and came back to find 2 feathers (I think primaries) dropped and in the blood. This cannot possibly be a good thing, but I am stumped as to how it happened. Overall the bird seems happy, maybe he go hungry bated some and got is wing stuck somewhere I can't figure it out. I am a little worried.

    Regards
    Khaled

  9. #44
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    Your previous photos of the cluttered weathering area might be a good place to start looking.
    Those two mid primaries are the ones most likely to take the full force of a developing wing muscle made worse by their own weight and others around them with quills full of developing fluid.
    Marcus Lloyd-Parker

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gerkin View Post
    Your previous photos of the cluttered weathering area might be a good place to start looking.
    Those two mid primaries are the ones most likely to take the full force of a developing wing muscle made worse by their own weight and others around them with quills full of developing fluid.
    Thanks Marcus. I cleared up the weathering - my grand idea of branches probably was not the best. Anyway, just a perch now. Hopefully it will not impact flight too much. They are on opposite sides.
    Regards
    Khaled

  11. #46
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    Day 31

    The bird is taming down really well. I am feeding him 2 x day - walking him to a garnished lure. Eats pretty fast then stops, chitters a little and them jumps on the glove. There are a number of time when he is vocal on the perch in the living room, chittering which I have mistaken for being hungry. All he wants is to sit on the glove and lay down.

    I need to start feeding him sparrows/starlings ASAP and also get some sparrows ready for initial entering in a couple for weeks. I had an old trap set up which ended up trapping a dove and killing it - so I am never using that again. I am considering ordering a repeating funnel trap but they are very bulky and will cost a fortune to ship. My other options is maybe mist net for the garden.. Funnel trap DIY plans also look very complicated. Any suggestions?

    Also speaking of DIY, does anyone have an suggestions for an indoor ring perch, I am almost tempted to scour IKEA for a lamp with a ring on top that I can maybe modify. Nobody flying micros here so equipment is scarce
    Regards
    Khaled

  12. #47
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    Some people make a simple bow net using fish net small enough to keep sparrows and such from getting out. Then they put out seed in the garden by the net and wait until a good number are there and then trigger the net. Not that hard to do and you can get a bunch of live birds quickly. Just let them get used to the net being open and the free seed...a few days of that is all it would take.
    You can also make a simple funnel trap out of wire fabric. Just taper down from the outside to something small enough on the inside to where they can't get back out easily. Put plenty of seed around it and inside the funnel and inside the trap and just let it do it its thing. Sometimes is useful to put a small dish of water inside and perhaps something over part of it that would create some shade so they don't cook before you get back to them. Sometimes you can use some fresh branches from a bush for this, or place the trap under a bush where there is usually shade.
    Pete J
    It's all just too Zen for me.

  13. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteJ View Post
    Some people make a simple bow net using fish net small enough to keep sparrows and such from getting out.
    Here's an old DIY thread I posted several years ago on one I made.

    http://www.nafex.net/showthread.php?t=12211

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    Quote Originally Posted by joekoz View Post
    Here's an old DIY thread I posted several years ago on one I made.

    http://www.nafex.net/showthread.php?t=12211
    That's really neat.
    Regards
    Khaled

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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteJ View Post
    Some people make a simple bow net using fish net small enough to keep sparrows and such from getting out. Then they put out seed in the garden by the net and wait until a good number are there and then trigger the net. Not that hard to do and you can get a bunch of live birds quickly. Just let them get used to the net being open and the free seed...a few days of that is all it would take.
    will try this out.
    Regards
    Khaled

  16. #51
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    Day 32

    I can feel the bird is maturing and his appetite is getting bigger. He is also very vocal and bates a lot more. One time he was actually hunger (or at least pretended to be then ate a few bites on lure outside) then jump back on the fist. Other times, he gets very chittery and bates and then jump at me as I get close. Sits on fist and chitters a lot but no interest in food - can't figure out what he wants. I still need to feed him 2x day to ensure he doesn't get hungry.
    Regards
    Khaled

  17. #52
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    Day 32




    Can see some changes in temperament. Overall still very tame but a little more distant. Also, appetite has increased. Just got a new bow perch custom made (micro size) to replace the block perch. He doesn't like it and will not sit on it at all. I kept the block perch nearby so as not to annoy him too much.

    With hard penning coming up soon. I would like some input on how to start training etc...
    Regards
    Khaled

  18. #53
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    Day 37



    After a weight reduction over a few days he has gone gradually from 145g,137, 131 and finally 126g today. This was the first time I saw a keen response for a tossed lure on the ground with a tied DOC. He jumped from my fist straight to it and broke in immediately and ate plentiful. He also made a squawking sound when we went out to the garden which is where is fed daily. Next step is either call him from a perch to the lure - recall training or just enter him on a baggie with a creance. Still thinking about it. I have not fed on the fist at all thus far.
    Regards
    Khaled

  19. #54
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    Day 38

    Started screaming for food today 2 hours before usual feeding time. Took him to the field today to put him on a creance and recall him. Unfortunately, no response to the glove. He did come to a thrown lure after several attempts and in the end it was only a few feet away from him. Get him to step off the lure is a challenge, he really hops on the glove after he finishes his meal, otherwise tidbits or other will not get him to step up.

    A little disappointing...
    Regards
    Khaled

  20. #55
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    Any input welcome. This is my first imprint so really learning as I go along. Today he showed some agression to the glove - footing it a few times in the evening which sitting on it and also biting the glove. This is the first time he shows this behavior also the first time he ever had a tidbit on the glove (something I will no longer do). Tomorrow I plan to recall him to the lure in the garden (see if he responds better).
    Regards
    Khaled

  21. #56
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    I would like to place some input here. I trained my imprinted shikra like a passage bird. The way I do is to use forceps to hold tid bit so hopefully the bird will show aggressive toward the forceps not my finger. If I put the reward on glove then it has to be very small that my shikra can eat in one go to prevent mantling on my fist. I also do not reduce weight more than 5 gram a day. After recalling distant is around 30 m. I then introduce the lure. Usually the whole process of recalling is less than 2 weeks. Many will take less than a week to free fly. However, entering is more difficult for shikra and frozen baggy of the bird you hope to hunt is very helpful. I hope this help.
    Bami

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    Quote Originally Posted by bami View Post
    I would like to place some input here. I trained my imprinted shikra like a passage bird. The way I do is to use forceps to hold tid bit so hopefully the bird will show aggressive toward the forceps not my finger. If I put the reward on glove then it has to be very small that my shikra can eat in one go to prevent mantling on my fist. I also do not reduce weight more than 5 gram a day. After recalling distant is around 30 m. I then introduce the lure. Usually the whole process of recalling is less than 2 weeks. Many will take less than a week to free fly. However, entering is more difficult for shikra and frozen baggy of the bird you hope to hunt is very helpful. I hope this help.
    Thanks Bami. I am guessing from your comment that you do not feed on the glove - only tidbit. So when using a frozen baggy, do I tie a full meal to it (DOC or quail and then step the bird to the glove?
    Regards
    Khaled

  23. #58
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    Day 40

    As stated before, I have started reducing weight over several days and gradually down from 145g to 126. He started to scream 1 hr before feeding time over last 2 days. Never fed on fist yet. He is very responsive to a lure thrown on the ground while he is on my fist but zero response to recalling him to a lure when he has to fly to me. After he eats his fill he jumps to my fist with no reward. In a way he is looking outward and feels ready to hunt. But with no recall mechanism I worry how he will act if he misses a slip. Any suggestions?

    Regards
    Khaled

  24. #59
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    I have done this in the past with Merlins. Swing the lure and as he starts coming, draw the lure string through your gloved hand and have the lure on your fist when he is coming in very close. Let him land on it and eat. You can begin to put smaller tidbits on the lure and as long as you let him have them each time he will still feel strongly about the lure. If you cheat him, he will lose his attachment to wanting the lure.
    The other way you can do it, is to call to the lure but do not put much on it. Let him land on it on the ground as usual, then offer a bigger chunk of meat on the fist which you put down by him when he's eating the lure piece. He will eventually learn to come to the lure, garnished or not, then when you offer the glove he will jump up there for the tidbit instead. It will just seem like an extra step for him. Eventually he will come to understand that the fist is a good place to come back to after a flight.
    Pete J
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  25. #60
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    I don't feed mine on the fist Khaled. When my shikra land on the fist she bend down and eat 1 piece of her reward in the forceps or 1 on the fist. When train for frozen baggy the first few days I attach quite a big piece of meat on the frozen baggy. I hope you get a good recalling done soon. Shikra is a very courageous bird of prey and very fun to hunt with.
    Bami

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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteJ View Post
    I have done this in the past with Merlins. Swing the lure and as he starts coming, draw the lure string through your gloved hand and have the lure on your fist when he is coming in very close. Let him land on it and eat. You can begin to put smaller tidbits on the lure and as long as you let him have them each time he will still feel strongly about the lure. If you cheat him, he will lose his attachment to wanting the lure.
    The other way you can do it, is to call to the lure but do not put much on it. Let him land on it on the ground as usual, then offer a bigger chunk of meat on the fist which you put down by him when he's eating the lure piece. He will eventually learn to come to the lure, garnished or not, then when you offer the glove he will jump up there for the tidbit instead. It will just seem like an extra step for him. Eventually he will come to understand that the fist is a good place to come back to after a flight.
    Hi Pete. Will eating on the fist cause aggression on the glove later on? I fed one tidbit 2 days ago and noticed the same night when manning him that the attempt to foot the glove a few times. ung lure that I am swinging if sitting on a perch
    Regards
    Khaled

  27. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by bami View Post
    I don't feed mine on the fist Khaled. When my shikra land on the fist she bend down and eat 1 piece of her reward in the forceps or 1 on the fist. When train for frozen baggy the first few days I attach quite a big piece of meat on the frozen baggy. I hope you get a good recalling done soon. Shikra is a very courageous bird of prey and very fun to hunt with.
    Thanks Bami, I will try the frozen baggy with food attached. let's see how it works out.
    Regards
    Khaled

  28. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by falcon3d View Post
    Hi Pete. Will eating on the fist cause aggression on the glove later on? I fed one tidbit 2 days ago and noticed the same night when manning him that the attempt to foot the glove a few times. ung lure that I am swinging if sitting on a perch
    A couple of things to keep in mind I suppose. Hawks are not falcons. They think completely different. In many ways I have felt that they are much smarter and quicker to pick up the subtleties of our behavior that leads to food acquisition for them. I think with imprint accipiters, particularly the smaller and more aggressive ones, you are unlikely to not experience some aggression during the first few months. They seem to suffer a bit more from frustration (which can come in handy later on as it can forcibly direct intensity toward quarry) and as such will display such feelings toward the falconer, the perch, the dog, whatever is handy. As they grow up (from the stage of yours and older) they begin to exhibit a state of yarak, which is not so easily seen (if it occurs at all) in falcons. Accipiters tend to have the most obvious visible outward expression of this state (yarak) by their posture and behavior (clutching the glove repeatedly, mock lunging at your face, crest raising and lowering, wings dropping slightly, erect stance).
    Each bird is slightly different in their expression of yarak, some are extreme, some are subtle. The point being, these are aggressive birds. They have to be. They can't be as common as they are throughout the world without having some mechanism to keeping them in that population status. So, understand that you will be unlikely to not have aggression presenting itself to you during handling of these birds.
    The other thing is, and this is fortunate for us, that this aggression can be focused and directed toward quarry. It will allow a build up of the aggression they are feeling by releasing it on quarry or on attacking of quarry. Many of the handling problems we encounter with Accipiters go away quite quickly once they begin killing prey. I know people over here that are working with Cooper's Hawks (like I currently have) that firmly believe that the more killing you let these young birds partake in, the better off you will be. I knew one falconer that said he had to kill at least five head a day with his young tiercel Cooper's imprint to ward off the aggressive attacks on himself. I have yet to really experience that with my tiercel but he's not quite in the field yet as his tail is just now drawing down the blood, and his weight is still highish, but lower than it was. But his tolerance is also very limited and I can tell by feeling his breast that I am still at least about nearly an ounce too high. In other words, right now he's being a spoiled rotten little brat! But, he does have all the things learned that are necessary to get into the field. He will get the lure fairly readily, and he will transfer off to food on the fist. He will also come to the fist, but he is still a bit reluctant at first, and will go to other perches to sort of sneak up on the glove before he makes his move. That tells me he's just too high in weight.
    But, I have also seen that his aggression is building quickly now. I have seen him attempt to kill yard birds that land on the roof of his weather pen, or walk too close to it. I have also seen him fly across the pen to hit the chain link trying to get at the hunting dog he will be working with. I hate to say it, but that is what the dog is there for....to take some of the inevitable heat from the hawk off of me. The dog doesn't know this yet.LOL I have also seen him bouncing around from perch to perch in the weathering pen, all the while eye balling me in a subtle way, screaming (food begging/contact call), then suddenly kind of go at the side of the pen that is adjacent to where I am sitting in a lawn chair outside observing him. You could see his crest going up and his frustration building that he couldn't access me directly. He was getting pretty mad about it. Some of that is hunger of course, but in truth, he's not really that hungry yet. But, he just thinks he is.
    And when on the fist or lure he's very aggressively mantling now. But these are normal behaviors. If you look at any documentary footage of just about any Accipiters nests from across the globe, you will notice that the young get very very aggressive with the adults just at fledging time and beyond. I think that it is not that they are needing more food, its just part of them growing up and the yarak coming to the forefront. Yarak is, in a way, a saving protocol for them. It pushes them to think about killing before they actually need to. It keeps them 'at the ready' for opportunities that may present themselves at any moment for potential meals. In extreme conditions of cold, this is what allows them to live through some very rough winter conditions. If they wait until they are hungry and in real need, they may be confronted by impossible stormy conditions (blizzards for instance) and be unable to find food and starve. So yarak is a good mechanism to help motivate these birds when they may not necessarily be in need of food desperately.
    The sooner you can get your bird into killing the better off you will be, and Bami's suggestion to keep working with the frozen baggie is as good a way as possible if you don't have living bags that you can set up, or actual free living prey to let it try out.
    I did look up weights on Shikras the other day and was surprised at how little weight information there was on them online. Do you know if yours is a male or female? I was trying to get a sense of whether you were getting close to a good flying weight for whichever sex, but it seemed a bit vague (both sexes would be somewhere between 100-200 grams?). I had always thought them to be larger and heavier than this...reminiscent of our Cooper's Hawk. But instead its more in the range of our Sharp-shinned Hawk I guess. Very small. My tiercel Coop is likely going to be flying somewhere around 350ish initially...perhaps a little lower. Right now he's around 367 and being a total jerk about many things.
    Pete J
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  29. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteJ View Post
    A couple of things to keep in mind I suppose. Hawks are not falcons. They think completely different. In many ways I have felt that they are much smarter and quicker to pick up the subtleties of our behavior that leads to food acquisition for them. I think with imprint accipiters, particularly the smaller and more aggressive ones, you are unlikely to not experience some aggression during the first few months. They seem to suffer a bit more from frustration (which can come in handy later on as it can forcibly direct intensity toward quarry) and as such will display such feelings toward the falconer, the perch, the dog, whatever is handy. As they grow up (from the stage of yours and older) they begin to exhibit a state of yarak, which is not so easily seen (if it occurs at all) in falcons. Accipiters tend to have the most obvious visible outward expression of this state (yarak) by their posture and behavior (clutching the glove repeatedly, mock lunging at your face, crest raising and lowering, wings dropping slightly, erect stance).
    Each bird is slightly different in their expression of yarak, some are extreme, some are subtle. The point being, these are aggressive birds. They have to be. They can't be as common as they are throughout the world without having some mechanism to keeping them in that population status. So, understand that you will be unlikely to not have aggression presenting itself to you during handling of these birds.
    The other thing is, and this is fortunate for us, that this aggression can be focused and directed toward quarry. It will allow a build up of the aggression they are feeling by releasing it on quarry or on attacking of quarry. Many of the handling problems we encounter with Accipiters go away quite quickly once they begin killing prey. I know people over here that are working with Cooper's Hawks (like I currently have) that firmly believe that the more killing you let these young birds partake in, the better off you will be. I knew one falconer that said he had to kill at least five head a day with his young tiercel Cooper's imprint to ward off the aggressive attacks on himself. I have yet to really experience that with my tiercel but he's not quite in the field yet as his tail is just now drawing down the blood, and his weight is still highish, but lower than it was. But his tolerance is also very limited and I can tell by feeling his breast that I am still at least about nearly an ounce too high. In other words, right now he's being a spoiled rotten little brat! But, he does have all the things learned that are necessary to get into the field. He will get the lure fairly readily, and he will transfer off to food on the fist. He will also come to the fist, but he is still a bit reluctant at first, and will go to other perches to sort of sneak up on the glove before he makes his move. That tells me he's just too high in weight.
    But, I have also seen that his aggression is building quickly now. I have seen him attempt to kill yard birds that land on the roof of his weather pen, or walk too close to it. I have also seen him fly across the pen to hit the chain link trying to get at the hunting dog he will be working with. I hate to say it, but that is what the dog is there for....to take some of the inevitable heat from the hawk off of me. The dog doesn't know this yet.LOL I have also seen him bouncing around from perch to perch in the weathering pen, all the while eye balling me in a subtle way, screaming (food begging/contact call), then suddenly kind of go at the side of the pen that is adjacent to where I am sitting in a lawn chair outside observing him. You could see his crest going up and his frustration building that he couldn't access me directly. He was getting pretty mad about it. Some of that is hunger of course, but in truth, he's not really that hungry yet. But, he just thinks he is.
    And when on the fist or lure he's very aggressively mantling now. But these are normal behaviors. If you look at any documentary footage of just about any Accipiters nests from across the globe, you will notice that the young get very very aggressive with the adults just at fledging time and beyond. I think that it is not that they are needing more food, its just part of them growing up and the yarak coming to the forefront. Yarak is, in a way, a saving protocol for them. It pushes them to think about killing before they actually need to. It keeps them 'at the ready' for opportunities that may present themselves at any moment for potential meals. In extreme conditions of cold, this is what allows them to live through some very rough winter conditions. If they wait until they are hungry and in real need, they may be confronted by impossible stormy conditions (blizzards for instance) and be unable to find food and starve. So yarak is a good mechanism to help motivate these birds when they may not necessarily be in need of food desperately.
    The sooner you can get your bird into killing the better off you will be, and Bami's suggestion to keep working with the frozen baggie is as good a way as possible if you don't have living bags that you can set up, or actual free living prey to let it try out.
    I did look up weights on Shikras the other day and was surprised at how little weight information there was on them online. Do you know if yours is a male or female? I was trying to get a sense of whether you were getting close to a good flying weight for whichever sex, but it seemed a bit vague (both sexes would be somewhere between 100-200 grams?). I had always thought them to be larger and heavier than this...reminiscent of our Cooper's Hawk. But instead its more in the range of our Sharp-shinned Hawk I guess. Very small. My tiercel Coop is likely going to be flying somewhere around 350ish initially...perhaps a little lower. Right now he's around 367 and being a total jerk about many things.
    Very helpful comments Pete. His weight was lowered even more today - reached 115g (his fat average was 140g and has been reduced over a 1 week period). . I noticed that despite being very hungry he was not flying to lure but jumping on leaves around the perch footing them and eating them. He seems generally confused/almost doesn't "see" the lure. Finally, I put him up on pole at about head height, through the lure out a few times until finally something "clicked" with him and fly down to the lure screaming and eating immediately.

    I did manage to catch some quarry, so will likely enter him on them after I use the frozen quarry first.
    Regards
    Khaled

  30. #65
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    Good to hear he's making the connection. It can take a while it seems for them to come to recognize the lure if its moving. Once they do though, look out because they will be all over it from then on. Its kind of the last real hurdle to get them past. I hope the baggie goes well for you. Make sure he gets it by tethering it or perhaps releasing it someplace where it cannot get away from him. Its better if things progress in a natural manner, with success, than if some opportunity gets missed which can be a setback. You won't likely have to do a lot of baggies as you want to be careful about their use as the birds can get too used to things being too easy to catch. What I usually do is give them about three, then back off and show them some wild slips, and if they don't catch those or worse yet don't chase those, then I go back to the drawing board and offer a bag again to increase their confidence. Sometimes their response can be related to hunger, but it can also be related to development. You can offer all the slips you want and not have them go for them because they just aren't quite there yet in development. They do stay with their parents for a few weeks after fledging, getting support from them in the form of feeding until they are doing on their own. I'm sure that some get lucky and score very early on, becoming proficient hunters. Others may not get lucky from the beginning and struggle for weeks trying to make up for the initial failures. Then one day they get lucky too and their physical and mental development finally mesh to create the killing machine they will be in the weeks and years ahead.
    So don't get discouraged, he sounds like he is progressing just fine for his age.
    Pete J
    It's all just too Zen for me.

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    I believe the way ahead is clear. Thanks to all that have provided input and feedback. The final piece of the puzzle for me on how to feed off of game/baggie. Till now the bird eats a DOC off the lure, jumps on the glove ONLY when he is done, feeks his beak and we are done. Do I still feed on the ground? but then how do I control portions? Do I pick the caught quarry with the bird and feed on the fist? Note he has never been fed on the fist before.
    Regards
    Khaled

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    I never quite understood how that could be accomplished. I guess snap the bird in and let it feed. But what if there is weather suddenly approaching or something or someone else? A stray dog?
    What I do is let them break into the kill, maybe give them time to eat the lungs, heart and liver of whatever it is, then present them with something else that I brought along, on the glove...sort of slip into their face, they will grip it with beak or step on, then lift up both the hawk and the kill, but slip the kill away while they are eating the food you brought along (your controlled amount). Either that or many people put the garnished lure down next to them and hope they will transfer over to it, many do without a hassle because they've been doing it that way since about this age your bird is now.
    But, if you look at youtube videos of various small accipiters being flown (Sharp-shinned Hawks, Eurasian Spars, Crested Goshawks, Cooper's Hawks, etc.) you will see that just about everyone feeds on the fist at some point in the process. You might get away with it for quite some time, barring any interruptions or obstacles. But eventually you'll be forced to pick them up and perhaps very unceremoniously due to the circumstances. And if the bird isn't familiar with the process of being picked up from the kill or with the kill, you may scare them badly and ruin the experience with them. Trust is sort of an important thing with imprints of any kind, so you must, ideally, try to preserve it as often as possible from any threats.
    Pete J
    It's all just too Zen for me.

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    Makes perfect sense.
    Regards
    Khaled

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    Day 42

    Weight up again to 126g. Looks like he made the connection to the lure. Response was instant. Still feeding 1 DOC per day. I believe he is ready to be entered in 1-2 days. My plan is to use a baggie in 2 days, perhaps before that I will use a frozen baggie and attached some meat to it. Screaming continues but I think he will need to take some wild game before it he quiets down.
    Regards
    Khaled

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    Day 43

    Entered the bird today on a baggie. Did not exactly go as planned. Started out great, I had a Myna (starling sized bird) tethered - also the same size as my Shikra. The male Shikra on the glove tied to a creance. The hawk bolted at the baggie as soon as he saw it, attempted to foot it a few times but after the Myna put up a bit of a fight, the hawk backed off and walked away. I humanely dispatched the Myna then gave it to the hawk to eat. It broke into it, at a breast then I picked him up with a quail leg which I fed him on the glove and put him back on this perch. He was screaming pretty much the whole time (but not aggressive). Tomorrow I will attempt entering on a smaller quarry maybe.
    Regards
    Khaled

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